Domaine GENOT-BOULANGER (Meursault) -- 2015 Part I: Reds Tasted from Tank and Barrel Samples

This estate was created in the 1970s by a Parisian pharmacist, first in Mercurey, then it moved to Beaune. It is now in Meursault.

Over the years, the domaine expanded greatly (the first purchase of Côte d’Or property was only in 1995), but much of the production was sold to négociants. Today, the estate comprises 22 ha and 30 appellations, fifteen in each color, and with the emphasis on estate bottling. The Côte Chalonnaise holdings, which at one time had been as high as 13 ha, are now 4 ha, with the remainder being in the Côte d’Or.

Aude and Guillaume Lavollée became the third generation to run the estate, beginning in 2008. The immediately began changes in the vineyards, converting the estate to organic viticulture. Beginning with the 2011 vintage, the estate was entirely organic and certification was achieved in 2015. 

There is excellent quality here. Especially for those who are frustrated because the allocations of so many estates of long recognition are full, this is a property to look for.

Harvesting in 2015 began on 2 September with the whites. For the reds, the premiers crus and grands crus from the Côte de Nuits have 20-40% whole cluster, except for the Clos-Vougeot, which has 80% whole clusters. For the reds, malolactic fermentations finished rather early.

The grapes were not cooled in 2015 and remontage (pumping over) was used rather than the more extractive punching down, because the terroirs here naturally give structure, said Guillaume Lavollée. Usually, fermentation goes for 2-3 weeks; in 2015, it was 17-18 days. After that, the wines spend 10-12 months in barrel, then six months in cask. For the reds, 20% new oak except for the Bougogne.

2015 Bourgogne   Pinot Noir
This wine is from a single parcel in the plain below Pommard. The wine is raised in barrels that are 3-5 years old. The wine is light, attractive, and charming with red fruits and good freshness. It’s an example of the good wines from lesser appellations that can be found in 2015. (85-88)

2015 Mercurey    1er Cru   En Sazenay
From a vineyard with clay soils with lots of limestone and vines planted 1998-2000, this wine has red and dark fruits, good acidity and finesse, a silky texture, and nice freshness. (87-90)

2015 Pommard
The vines here range from 1946 to the 1980s. The fruit is dark with finesse for Pommard, some lightness on the palate, and good density and intensity. There are three liuex-dits for this wine: Cras, Vignots, and Chanière; each is vinified separately and the wines are only assembled when they come out of barrel into stainless steel. (87-90)

2015 Chambolle-Musigny
This wine comes from the Les Nazoires and Les Mombies lieux-dits which are on a strong limestone slab. Two-thirds of the vines date to the 1950s, the other one-third from 2009. This is remarkably good village wine. The nose shows floral and red berry aromas. The mouth is spicy, intense, elegant, and pure with finesse and a velvet texture. (89-93)

2015 Beaune    1er Cru    Grèves
This wine comes from the southern part of the Grèves, very steep. One part has vines dating to the 1960s, the other vines from 1979-81. Alas, only 9 hl/ha in 2015, although in 2016 the vines escaped the frost and rebounded with 35 hl/ha. The wine has a smooth texture, minerality, intensity, and firmness with attractive raspberry fruit. (91-94)

2015 Aloxe-Corton    1er Cru   Clos du Chapître
This is a very good, but not well-known premier cru vineyard, and in fact Guillaume Lavollée thinks it is the most interesting terroir in the estate. The nose is quite pure with dark fruits. The mouth is chiseled and pure with red and dark fruits, finesse, power, penetration, minerality, and length. It should make a splendid bottle. 32% whole clusters here. (91-95)

2015 Pommard    1er Cru    Clos Blanc
The vineyard here was replanted in 2000 with massale selection. Here the soils are limestone. The wine is dark, dense, and chewy and good length. It is promising with  the finesse of the vintage mixed with the rusticity of Pommard. (89-93)

2015 Corton    Les Combes
From one of the less well-known Corton terroirs, this wine has raspberry fruit of good length. It is light for a Corton but shows good finesse and precision. (92-95)

2015 Clos-Vougeot
This wine is from the bottom of the Clos, surrounded by Jadot’s vineyards. Guillaume Lavollée says there are at least three different soil types here. The vines date from the early 1970s and the vineyard is worked by horse. This wine is quite powerful and has plenty of tannin to go with its dark fruit. It appears much less developed than the other wines. 80% whole clusters here and alcohol is about 13.5%. It is a monster of a wine and unlike the others, was still aging in barrel when I tasted it in November 2016. (90-94)