Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask

Harvesting took place from 13 to 19 September. Quantity was a little higher than 2013 – the hail on 28 June did hit the vineyards here at Musigny and Amourueuses, resulting in 20-30% losses (a little less for Amoureuses than for Musigny), but as the hail took place before the green harvest, its effect was less severe than it could have been. The Musigny and Amoureuses were the standout wines – whether that is due to the lower yields or not is an open question. For the white, the amount was normal (in 2013, production of the white was just 1/3 of normal).

As usual, grapes were entirely destemmed (in recent times, 1990 is the only vintage with some whole clusters (10%), as well as a little more new wood than usual). Alcohols were moderate in 2014, as everywhere I visited. Malolactic fermentations were normal in their timing. François Millet, who was sick the day I visited, calls it a vintage of spring – spring flowers in the morning, a reflection of the freshness of the wines.

2014 Chambolle-Musigny
 The nose is intense and focused. The mouth shows raspberry and pomegranate fruit with some dark fruit overtones. The mouth is smooth, pure, and long with smooth tannins. Here the average age of vines is 30-35 years. (88-91)

2014 Chambolle-Musigny    1er Cru
As always, this wine is made from the young vines (less than 25 years, average age 15-16 years) from Musigny that have been declassified. The wine is precise, focused and light with darker fruits than those in the Chambolle, but there still is some red here. The wine is very pure and focused. It is light and with a bit more structure than in the village wine. (92-95)

2014 Chambolle-Musigny    1er Cru    Les Amoureuses
As this wine shows, there is a marked differentiation in hierarchy at de Vogüé for the 2014s, something that has not been apparent at other estates that I previously had visited. The wine is pure with dark raspberry and red cherry fruit, great intensity and penetration. It’s a most striking wine. The soils here have even more limestone than the Musigny. (94-97)

2014 Bonnes-Mares
The nose here is stony. The mouth is more closed than for the foregoing wines, but there is some Bonnes-Mares animality here along with blackberry fruit that penetrating and precise with lightness.  (93-96)

2014 Musigny    vieilles vignes

The nose is dark, open, and intense with blueberry fruit. The mouth is broad, intense, deep, and forward with penetration and harmony to its blueberry fruit, good freshness and acidity. This is an excellent Musigny and probably will make a great wine. (95-98)