Domaine Michel LAFARGE -- 2013s from Cask

 Domaine Michel LAFARGE (Volnay)

2013s  from Cask

I visited this estate on the first day that I professionally tasted in Burgundy back in the 1980s, and along with Grivot, I have returned every year without fail. Back then it was a bit of an insider’s wine, but today, it is widely (and justly) known as one of the great sources for Volnay (and other wines from the Côte de Beaune).

With the hail, the vintage came in at about 35% of a normal yield, meaning that for 2012-2013-2014, the total production for all three (20% of normal in 2012, 35% in 2013, and 40% in 2014) is roughly equal to about one normal harvest, although of course the expenses of production were much greater than for a normal harvest and would have approached or surpassed those for three normal harvests.

Harvesting began on October 3. There was very little sorting of the grapes that was necessary due to the regularity of the maturation here. Vinification was as usual, and chaptalization was on the order of 0.5º.

As almost everywhere in Burgundy, these are wines made under the most difficult conditions and are not wines that can reach the extraordinary heights possible in the best vintages. Nevertheless, they are excellent wines that will not disappoint.

2013 Bourgogne-Aligoté   Raisin Dorée

Lafarge is one of the few spots in Burgundy where I start with the whites – I suppose because while quite good, they would be anti-climactic after the reds. The wine has good acidity to play against the fat and it is elegant, light, and mineral. As always, this is a most particular style of Aligoté, but quite interesting. (86-89)

2013 Meursault

The Meursault has lively acidity and richness. It is elegant overall in its presentation of lemony fruit and shows good length. (87-90)

2013 Beaune 1er Cru – Clos des Aigrots

The last white shows the structure and steeliness of Beaune white and is elegant with finesse. (88-91)

Passing to the reds:

2013 Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains   L’Exception

The nose shows the white pepper I frequently find in this wine. The mouth is refreshing with strawberry fruit and good acidity. (85-88)

2013 Bourgogne

The wine has strawberry fruit, nice acidity, good length, and some structure to permit aging. (86-89)

2013 Volnay

Strawberry fruit in this wine, too, with purity. It is similar to the Bourgogne with more substance – the usual pattern here – as one goes up he line through Volnay vendanges sélectionnées, one sees a constant theme, and then with the premiers crus the terroirs take over. (88-91)

2013 Volnay   vendanges sélectionnées

This wine is quite similar to the Volnay but with more finesse. (89-92)

2013 Beaune  1er Cru – Clos des Aigrots

This wine is tender, round, and light but has a touch of boniness to it. (87-90)

2013 Beaune-Grèves   1er Cru

This wine is rounder with more flesh than the Clos des Aigrots and some voluptuousness here. (88-92)

2013 Volnay  1er Cru – Les Mitans

The wine shows nice flesh and is smooth with dark tones to the fruit. (89-92)

2013 Volnay  1er Cru – Clos du Château des Ducs

The Clos du Château des Ducs, from a vineyard that essentially is Lafarge’s backyard, shows lovely finesse and is light and elegant in its red fruit. It is very Volnay with tenderness in the register of the Lafarge style. (89-92)

2013 Volnay  1er Cru – Les Caillerets

The wine shows the Caillerets texture and has dark fruit with lightness on the palate and good length. (89-93)

2013 Volnay  1er Cru – Clos des Chênes

The typical stony nose is here. The mouth is rounder and more sensual than usual with richness to the red fruits. (90-93)