Saturday, December 20, 2014

Château de PULIGNY-MONTRACHET -- 2013s from Cask

 Château de PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Puligny-Montrachet)

After managing this estate for some years, Etienne de Montille took it over a few years ago. There has been some shifting around of the vineyards between the de Montille domaine and this one so that, for example, the Meursault-Perrièrres is now part of de Montille. There will be less emphasis on red wines than in the past.

2013s  from Cask

2013 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru – En Rémilly blanc
This wine’s lime blossom nose is the immediate tipoff that this vineyard can be regarded as a continuation of Chevalier-Montrachet. The mouth is pure, noble, and austere with good energy and freshness in a medium-weight body. (89-93)

2013 Meursault  1er Cru – Porouzots
The nose here is steely. The mouth is light, clear, steely, and smooth. This wine is quite civilized for Porouzots, a vineyard that usually is rustic and in some versions can be excessively rustic. This is a very successful wine. (89-93)

2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru – Folatières
This wine is a step up in quality from the previous ones. It is pure and fine with development in the mouth and good length. It is less nervy than the Porouzots but shows Puligny smoothness. (91-95)

2013 Chevalier-Montrachet

This wine has lime blossoms, lightness, finesse, length, and balance. I do miss the tension that in other vintages is a prime element of Chevalier-Montrachet, but it is a good effort. 25% new wood on this wine. (91-94)