2011 Burgundies Tasted from Bottle -- Part I

An (Unjustly) Forgotten Vintage

2011s are currently on the shelves, yet not attracting much interest, according to my sources in the retail trade. In both red and white, there are very good to outstanding wines here, provided one takes care in selecting better producers. And in some cases, particularly around Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny, one can find wines that I believe will be great. I think the mediocre reputation of the vintage is due to a variety of factors:

1. 2011 followed upon 2010, a highly-regarded vintage. Think 1991, 2006, and perhaps 2010 in this regard. Moreover, unlike those vintages previously-mentioned, the 2012 vintage that succeeded it has also achieved favorable press.

2. 2011 was not an easy vintage to do, and results depended highly on work in the vineyards, choice of picking dates, and other factors that reflect the meticulousness of the producer. As a result, it is easy to write the vintage off unjustly based on an insufficient sampling of wines, especially if the sampling does not include wines from top producers in each appellation. Think 1993, 1998, 2001, and 2008, among others, in this regard (although overall, I hold all of those vintages in higher esteem than 2011).

3. The third, and possibly most significant, reason is complex to explain. To begin, we have to go back to the 2004 vintage. Some, but not all, winedrinkers found a large portion of 2004 reds undrinkable upon release. It soon became apparent that the reason that many found the wines undrinkable was pyrazines in the wines, and sensitivity to the pyrazines varied greatly from one individual to another (with time, the pyrazines seem to be fading away). There are various theories of how the pyrazines got into the wines, but one is that there were ladybugs present at harvest; the ladybugs naturally contain pyrazines and so when crushed with the grapes, they added their pyrazines to the wines in 2004. Bill Nanson of burgundy-report.com is, I believe, responsible for this theory, which is rejected by many, but not all, Burgundians. While working the harvest in 2011, Bill spotted the ladybugs again, and accordingly was suspicious of the vintage from the outset, and he so indicated on his website and elsewhere. Assuming for the moment that Bill’s theory is correct, nevertheless, there were far more and better sorting machines in place at many top domaines in 2011 than in 2004, and so there would be less reason to expect pyrazines in 2011s than in 2004s. In fact, all but those most sensitive to pyrazines have not found pyrazines to be problematic when tasting 2011s, but the reputation is still there.

In short, this is a vintage with plenty of wines worthy of your attention, especially as some get discounted to make room for the 2012s. Think of it as 2007 with better quality (and many 2007s are drinking extremely well right now). Aging potential seems to be medium, and the wines, at least for the moment, provide plenty of pleasure (it’s difficult to predict if and when they will close down). One can also anticipate that these will be wines can be drunk while allowing 2012s, 2010s, and 2009s to age. One drawback of the vintage, other than for the estates that were exceptionally successful, is that the wines are not strong on showing their respective terroir.

More details about the conditions of the vintage and how producers handled it were in the print edition of The Fine Wine Review that provided reviews of the wines from cask tasted in October and November 2012.

Talking about whether you should pay attention to this vintage raises one of my pet peeves, so let me state my position once again. It may be that in the past, there were vintages that were across the board failures. For the last twenty-five to thirty years, at least, that has not been the case because producers have the means, both technically and financially, to wait for sufficient ripeness, to eliminate what is bad, and to make something decent out of what is left. Not all producers will be able to do so successfully in a given vintage, but most first-rate producers will. As a result, it does not make sense to rank vintages hierarchically, but rather to think of them in terms of individual style and characteristics.

Link to Part II of this review;
link to Part III of this review;
link to Part IV of this review;
link to Part V of this review.

Marquis d’ANGERVILLE

2011 Volnay    1^er Cru     Fremiets    91/A-

2011 Volnay    1^er Cru     Champans    91/A-

2011 Volnay    1^er Cru     Taillepieds    92(+)/A

2011 Volnay    1^er Cru     Clos des Ducs   93/A

D’Angerville’s Volnay-Fremiets is classic Fremiets: light and firm with red fruits (mostly pomegranate). The Volnay-Champans also is true to type: fleshy, smooth, and red-fruited. The body is medium-light. The Volnay-Taillepieds is darker with a smooth but firm texture and more focus than the two previous wines. It, too, is medium-light in weight. Last, the Volnay-Clos des Ducs is dense and structured with finesse and length. As usual, expect this wine to take plenty of time to reach its maturity.

BALLOT-MILLOT

2011 Pommard    1^er Cru     Pézerolles   90/B+

This Pommard-Pézerolles is smooth, round, and medium-light with dark fruit and some red, but it lacks the focus and energy of a still better wine.

BONNEAU-DU-MARTRAY

2011 Corton-Charlemagne    93+/A-

2011 Corton (r)    95/A

The Corton-Charlemagne has hazelnut aromas and flavors and is oily and medium-weight. All in all, a very pleasing wine. Some other vintages show more structure, though, so I’d be inclined to drink this wine on the younger side. The red Corton is dense and intense with good freshness, chalkiness, tannins, austerity, and an overall chisled effect. Contrary to the white, this is a wine I would hold for some time, but I think it will be outstanding because of its outstanding balance. I’d look to 2026-2061 for best drinking.

Simon BIZE & Fils

2011 Savigny-les-Beaune  (w)   91/A

2011 Savigny-les-Beaune    les bourgeot (r)   91/A

2011 Savigny-les-Beaune    1^er Cru   Les Fourneaux   92/A

2011 Savigny-les-Beaune    1^er Cru   Aux Vergelesses   93/A

All of the wines here are superb values, but the regional and village wines in both colors present special opportunities for those who want to experience the magic of Burgundy on a modest budget. The white Savigny is pure and dense with some nuttiness to it.

In red, the Savigny, Bourgeot is fresh, dark, and pure with outstanding energy. The Savigny-Fourneaux is fresh, pure, dense, energetic, and mineral with some roundness. Last, the Savigny-Vergelesses is dark, pure, dense, and fresh with a bit of mustard seed and licorice.

BOUCHARD Père & Fils

2011 Beaune   1^er Cru     Grèves   vigne de l’enfant jésus   93/A

2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges    1^er Cru   Les Cailles   92/A

2011 Meursault    1^er Cru    Les Genevrières   94/A

2011 Corton-Charlemagne   92+/B+

Bouchard’s Beaune-Grèves, vigne de l’enfant Jésus shows dark berry fruit with finesse, medium weight, and good depth. While not the best of recent Enfant Jésus from Bouchard, it is quite a bit more than just honorable. The Nuits-Cailles has dark fruits with good density, smoothness, and roundness.

The Meursault-Genevrières is intense, pure, deep, and complex with Genevrières lime flavors. It is a lovely wine already. The Corton-Charlemagne is less concentrated than the Genevrières and lacks some tension, although it shows good depth and minerality. I’d give this wine a few years in the bottle to develop.

Réyanne et Pascal BOULEY

2011 Monthélie     aux fourneaux   90/A

2011 Monthélie    1^er Cru   Les Clous   89/B

2011 Volnay 89/A-

2011 Pommard 88/B+

2011 Volnay   1^er Cru    Robardelles   91+/A-

2011 Volnay   1^er Cru    Ronceret   89/B

2011 Volnay   1^er Cru    Santenots   92/A

2011 Volnay   1^er Cru    Clos des Chênes   92/A

2011 Volnay   1^er Cru    Champans   92/A

Bouley’s Monthélie, Fourneaux is from vines (some 20 years-old, others 60 years-old) downslope from the Monthélie-Clous vineyard. The wine is light, pure, and elegant with dark fruit and great freshness. I’d consume it over then next 17+ years. The Monthélie-Clous is from vines about 35 years old. The wine is round with dark fruit, but does not show as much depth or charm as the village wine. It is very fresh, though, and displays some tannin. I’d drink 2018-2041. The Volnay is very fresh with dark, crystalline fruit and round tannins. This wine is not complex, but it is charming. I’d look to 2020-2041 for prime drinking. The Pommard displays finesse for a Pommard with translucent red fruits. The rather civilized tannins give the wine good lift. But the wine lacks complexity. I’d drink between 2021 and 2045. The Volnay-Robardelles shows more substance and is fresh and crystalline with dark berry fruit and round tannins. I’d expect 2012-2046 for peak drinking. Bouley’s Volnay-Ronceret is fresh, dark, crystalline, and translucent without perpahs quite the depth of the Robardelles. I’d expect 2021-2036 to be the peak drinking period. Bouley’s Volnay-Santenots is fresh and complex with dark fruits that are translucent. There is good length here, medium-weight, some tannins, and greater intensity than in the foregoing wines. I’d look to 2023-2051 for peak drinking. The Volnay-Grands Champs is lighter and simpler than the Santenots with dark fruit, freshness, and round tannins. I’d expect 2018-2038 to be the peak drinking window. The Volnay-Clos des Chênes is more tannic than the foregoing with typical Clos des Chênes airiness, purity, and stoniness. The wine is relatively closed for the moment, but promising. I’d suggest 2025-2055 for best drinking. Last, the Volnay-Champans is tannic, fleshy, dark, very fresh, crystalline, airy, and mineral with a medium-light body. It is perhaps not as powerful as Champans often is, but still very attractive. I’d expect 2025-2055 to be the peak drinking period.

Christophe BUISSON          

2011 Bourgogne-Pinot Noir       87/A-

2011 Saint-Romain   sous le château         91/A

2011 Saint-Romain   sous le château (w)      90/A

Christophe Buisson is making glorious wines, the type that really show what he is as a producer because he coaxes so much quality from such appellations that are at the lower end of the Burgundy hierarchy. The Bourgogne-Pinot Noir is not complex, but otherwise displays everything one could want from red Burgundy. It is floral and fragrant in the nose. The mouth is light, but in no way dilute, with red fruits, a silky texture, and just enough tannin to assure aging capacity for well over a decade. Excellent balance here. Lot L BPN11. 12.5% stated alcohol. The Saint-Romain “Sous le Château” is immensely seductive for the red berries in the nose and mouth and the ample yet silky texture. Tannins are fully round and you’ll have no need to wait for this wine to come around. The vineyard is likely to become a premier cru in short order, and wines such as this are strong arguments in favor of that change. Lot L SRSC 11. 13% stated alcohol.

The white Saint-Romain “Sous le Château” is pure pleasure with minerality, a hint of nuttiness, and green apple fruit in a medium-weight body enlivened by excellent acidity.  Lot L SBSC 11. 13% stated alcohol.

Alain BURGUET

2011 Gevrey-Chambertin       symphonie    91+/A

2011 Gevrey-Chambertin       mes favorites   vieilles vignes   91(+)/A

2011 Gevrey-Chambertin    1^er Cru    Champeaux   93/A

2011 Vosne-Romanée    1^er Cru    Rouges du Dessus   91(+)/A-

Burguet’s wines often seem expensive compared to other wines from the same vineyards but different producers, but his wines deliver quality that alleviates concerns about the expense. The Gevrey, Symphonie is a blend of different vineyards. The fruit is dark and the wine shows some roundness without being too firm or heavy. The Gevrey, Favorites is dark and tannic but smoother than the preceding wine, and also more closed. The Gevrey-Champeaux is earthy and denser than the two village wines, and also more penetrating with smoothness and a femininity within the context of Gevrey wines. Last, the Vosne-Rouges du Dessus is redder in its fruit than the three Gevreys. It is smooth with powdered aspects to its flavors, but it is still quite closed.